Chapter VII: Fashion in the Rococo Era (18th Century)

If the Baroque period was about grandeur and drama, the Rococo era brought lightness, elegance, and playful refinement. Emerging in early 18th-century France under Louis XV, Rococo style spread across Europe and became synonymous with pastel colors, delicate ornamentation, and theatrical extravagance. Clothing was not just fashion — it was an art of seduction and display.

Women’s Fashion

The hallmark of Rococo women’s dress was the robe à la française (also called the “sack-back gown”), with wide panniers that extended skirts far to the sides, creating a dramatic silhouette. The front bodice was fitted with a stomacher — often embroidered or jeweled — while the back flowed in elegant pleats. Fabrics like silk taffeta, brocade, and satin shimmered in soft pastel shades: rose, sky blue, mint, ivory, and lavender.

Decoration was everywhere: ruffles, ribbons, bows, and garlands of artificial flowers. Lace adorned sleeves and necklines, while gowns were accessorized with pearl chokers, fans, and embroidered shoes. For more informal occasions, women wore the robe à l’anglaise, a gown with a more fitted back, signaling a shift toward practicality without losing charm.


Hairstyles and Beauty

Rococo hairstyles became legendary. At first, women styled their hair in soft curls, but soon coiffures grew higher and more elaborate. By mid-century, powdered wigs and towering creations — sometimes over half a meter tall — dominated, decorated with feathers, ribbons, and even miniature ships, birdcages, or scenes of gardens.

Cosmetics also reached new heights. Women powdered their faces pale, added rouge to cheeks, darkened eyebrows, and used mouches (beauty patches) to highlight features or send flirtatious signals. Perfumes and scented gloves completed the sensory impression.

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Men’s Fashion

Men’s clothing reflected Rococo’s elegance and refinement. The classic ensemble included the justaucorps (long coat), a richly embroidered waistcoat, and knee-length breeches. Fabrics matched the delicacy of women’s dress — silks and velvets in pastel or jewel tones, decorated with lace cuffs and embroidery.

Accessories signaled status: powdered wigs tied with ribbons, tricorn hats, silk stockings, buckled shoes, and canes. The male silhouette emphasized slimness and grace rather than military power, aligning with Rococo ideals of courtly manners and sophistication.


Accessories and Jewelry

Rococo jewelry mirrored the lightness of fashion. Necklaces with delicate pearls, floral motifs, and colored gemstones became popular. Cameos, portrait miniatures, and lockets carried sentimental value. Women’s fans — painted with pastoral or romantic scenes — were essential at every ball, serving both fashion and flirtation.

Men displayed ornate snuffboxes, jeweled sword hilts (though now more symbolic than practical), and elegant watches. Lace cravats, gloves, and pocket handkerchiefs became refined markers of taste.


The Spirit of Rococo

Rococo fashion was not just about clothing — it was about lifestyle. It embodied leisure, art, and flirtation in aristocratic society. Pastel silks rustled through gilded salons, fans fluttered during witty exchanges, and hairstyles reached new architectural heights. Though the French Revolution would eventually sweep this world away, Rococo remains remembered as one of the most theatrical and playful moments in fashion history.